So what is the point one may well ask in going to a French
country market in the evening rather than on a warm sunny
morning? Some marchés nocturnes are just that, a market held in
the evening selling souvenirs, local craft goods, clothes maybe
but probably not the fruit and vegetables one normally
associates with rural French markets.
Others however are rather different. You go there to eat, meet other people and
generally soak up the atmosphere of a French village. The many stalls offer
things to eat and drink, with tables and chairs (and often entertainment)
provided.
A wide variety of stalls sell all that is necessary for an evening’s dining.
Starters are available, soups and patés perhaps and there is usually a good
selection of main courses. In our part of France, the Dordogne, duck usually
takes pride of place and one can go up to various stalls and chose from the duck
main courses being cooked on the spot, confit de canard (duck preserved in its
own fat), magret de canard (steaks of duck breast) and aiguillettes de canard
(strips of duck breast). Bacon joints of very large proportions seemed to be
very popular last year. The usual fast food offerings, burgers, kebabs, pizzas
will probably be available too as well as perhaps specialities not normally
associated with this part of France but internationally popular, cous-cous and
paella. The normal accompaniment to most of these would be pommes frites
available in various quantities. Other stalls have a wide variety of bread,
cheeses, often brebis (sheep’s) and chèvre (goat’s) and several local wine
producers will have a selection of their wines on display. The cost of these
will of course cover a wide range of price brackets. At our nearest regular
(every Monday evening in July and August) marché nocturne, in the beautiful
village square of Cadouin, one can even take one’s own bottles (or 5 litre
plastic containers!) and fill up straight from the barrels, saving on bottling,
labelling and corks. A quite drinkable vin de table can be bought for 6 francs
(1 euro I suppose now) per litre. Even appelation controlée Bergerac is only 12
francs (2 euros) per litre. Chateau bottled wines are of course also available
mainly from local producers. The selection of sweet courses is not particularly
wide but there are usually crêpes, with a variety of fillings, ice creams and
fruit to be had.
Tables and benches/chairs are set out and one just turns up (don’t leave it too
late, this is one event where the French arrive in good time) and finds suitable
seats. There will certainly be a mixture of tourists and locals. If you join
them at the long tables rather than trying to find a quiet corner with a table
for two you will certainly strike up a conversation with your neighbours. If you
go along with a group you may want to take over a whole table for yourselves.
Music is often provided either the local organ grinder with his sing-along tunes
(sheets with the words provided) or local folk groups.
Some tips: The marchés nocturnes usually start at 7.00 p.m. Try not to be too
late if you are with a group and want to sit together. If you are in a smaller
group of two or four you should be able to find places somewhere. Extra tables
and chairs miraculously appear as numbers swell. However you might find yourself
in the full glare of the sun until the sun goes down. Many of the tables at
Cadouin are under the splendid stone and oak beam medieval market hall. Fine if
it’s raining (which let’s face it, it rarely does) but could be a little
claustrophobic (and noisy) if it gets too crowded in the high season.
Plastic cutlery, paper plates and plastic wine glasses will certainly be
provided but if you prefer to eat a little more elegantly it might be a good
idea to take along your own crockery and cutlery.
Taking any of your own food is (not surprisingly) frowned upon and shouldn’t
really be necessary as everything is so reasonably priced.
You will really appreciate the atmosphere of the occasion by joining in with
others, whether locals or other tourists of whatever nationality.
These events have become very popular indeed in the Dordogne (and perhaps other
areas of France too) over the last couple of years. The oldest established one
we know of is at a small village just to the Northeast of Bergerac, St Georges
de Montclard, just off the Bergerac to Périgueux road. Cadouin has become very
popular and has a most superb setting in the village square right next to the
medieval abbey. Le Buisson started its evening markets last Summer, every
Friday, whilst other villages have them on a less regular basis, look out for
posters in local supermarkets and on village notice-boards.
All in all, a great, atmospheric, lively and inexpensive evening out and you can
always go to an ordinary market for your fruit and veg. the next morning.
Alan and Liz Marsden
Old Bakery, Trémolat, Dordogne
Click here for Old Bakery Details
